In search of the Perfect Pumpkin Pie

Nothing says fall - or Thanksgiving - quite like pumpkin pie.

The seasonal treat features warm, aromatic spices paired with seasonal pumpkin and a classic, flaky pie crust.

Pumpkin pie can be as easy or as complicated as each baker would like, said Mary Heinrichs, owner of Calico Cafe in Coldwater, and Donna Andrews, lead baker at Pullman Bay Restaurant in Celina.

Both bakers said pumpkin pie is a fantastic choice for novice bakers.

"If you're starting out, pumpkin (pie) is a great place to start," Heinrichs said.

Some experienced bakers may make their pumpkin pies completely from scratch, including cooking and pureeing their own pumpkin, Heinrichs said.

Those who want to go the extra mile can purchase a sweet variety of pumpkin or even butternut squash to make the puree.

For example, Libby's brand pumpkin puree, which Heinrichs swears by and can be found in most grocery stores, uses Dickinson pumpkins.

According to Libby's website, Dickinson pumpkins and all pumpkins in general are a variety of squash. Sweeter varieties of pumpkin or squash make for the best pies and desserts due to their creamier texture and sweet taste, as opposed to the average pumpkin often found on porches this time of year.

However, Heinrichs and Andrews said there's nothing wrong with reaching for a can of pureed pumpkin from the grocery story. In fact, Heinrichs said the recipe on cans of Libby's pumpkin puree is perfect for beginners.

Pumpkin pie filling is typically made with pumpkin puree, sugar, spice, eggs and some sort of dairy, such as evaporated milk or heavy cream, the pair said.

What really sets a good pie apart, though, is the crust. Store-bought crust will still make a delicious pie, Heinrichs said, but making the dough from scratch will impress any guest.

Pie crusts are time consuming and require technique, both bakers agreed. However, there's no reason to be intimidated, Andrews said. Like any skill, baking requires practice and trial and error.

"Keep trying, don't give up," Andrews said. "Practice, practice, practice. Everyone makes mistakes."

The ingredients for a pie crust are relatively simple, the bakers said. A basic pie crust calls for flour, cold water, salt and fat. Pie crusts also can be made and frozen ahead of time, both said.

Bakers fall into three camps when it comes to fat in pie crusts: all butter, all shortening, or a mix of the two. Andrews makes her crust with shortening, while Heinrichs uses a combination of butter and shortening.

No matter what kind of crust is being made, keeping the dough cold is essential, Heinrichs said, because it will help prevent the fat from melting.

If the fats melt inside the dough before before baking, the crust will lose its flakiness and may be hard, crunchy or greasy instead of tender and flaky.

However, baking the dough while it is still cold will cause the fats to melt as the pie bakes, Heinrichs said, releasing steam that results in flaky layers.

One trick Andrews and Heinrichs recommended is using ice water in the dough as a way to keep it cold. Butter can be refrigerated or even frozen, Heinrichs said, and can either be tossed in a food processor or shredded with a cheese grater when adding it to the dry ingredients.

Heinrichs said adding ice water to the loose mixture of flour, salt and fat and then letting it sit for five to eight minutes before mixing makes a difference in her crusts.

There's often no exact measurements for ice water when it comes to pie dough, the bakers said, just a good eye for texture. Both agreed the dough should feel like a fresh ball of playdough.

Heinrichs said she heavily flours her work surfaces and pie tins so the dough won't stick. Putting a tablespoon of flour in the pie dish will help the pie come out easily when its sliced.

Bakers should keep tabs on the dough's temperature as it's rolled out, Heinrichs said. If the dough begins to feel warm, pop it back in the fridge for 10-15 minutes until it's cold again.

Heinrichs said she never par-bakes or blind bakes her crusts, which is when a crust is baked without a filling. Andrews and Heinrichs swear by using aluminum pie tins or porcelain pie dishes for their crusts. Heinrichs said she doesn't use glass pie dishes because they don't conduct heat as well, while tin pie pans give a crust extra crispness.

"If you want good crust, you want tin," she said.

Another key element to a good pumpkin pie is spice. Heinrichs said she does not add ginger and uses a combination of cinnamon, cloves, allspice and whatever else she feels like adding that day. Andrews said she uses classic spices such as cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves and ginger.

The two bakers have some differences in their techniques and ingredients. Heinrichs suggested using whole, heavy cream in pumpkin pie filling instead of condensed milk. The heavy cream will add a richer, creamier texture, she said. Andrews said she uses milk in her recipe.

Andrews said she starts baking her pies at a high temperature and then reduces the temperature for the remainder of the baking time. Heinrichs said she bakes hers at one temperature and yields consistent crusts.

Andrews and Pullman Bay owner Mike Wagner said they will likely sell 250 pies for Thanksgiving this year, about a third of those being pumpkin pie. Heinrichs said she plans to take orders for 50 of her pumpkin crumble pies for the holiday.